Jan 22nd 2004

I will be keeping this journal for those who want to know more about preparing for my Serum Run adventure, and later, for those who would like to follow me on the trail. If you want to know more about me and why I am running the Norman Vaughn Serum Run, check my biography elsewhere on this website.

I guess I will start where this all began, Fall training. I was training our dogs for my husband to race this season. He was at work on the North Slope and I had been cut to half time at Willow School, where I was teaching. This job cut gave me more time to dedicate to the dogs. All the time on the trail gave me the desire to do something epic with the dogs. And so my plan for the Serum Run began….

I started my training season in August on our four-wheeler (ATV). I hooked the dogs to the four-wheeler and they pulled me. I would run anywhere from 8 to 14 dogs at a time. I started with just a few miles a day. Each week or so, I would add a few miles to our runs. We stayed on the four-wheeler until after the first snow. I had chains on the four-wheeler so we did not slip and slid all over. It was Thanksgiving before I put the four-wheeler away and started running teams with a sled.

I guess many people would want me to begin with how I “hook” a team to a sled or four-wheeler. I can start there. The basic equipment you need: dogs, a gang line, sled or four-wheeler, harnesses, and a snow hook. The harness goes on a dog, the dog is attached to the gang line, the gang line is attached to the sled, and the sled is held in place while all this is going on with a snow hook that is stamped into the snow (very hard so it holds the sled in place). If I am running with a four-wheeler, I tie the four-wheeler to something until I am ready to go.

A dog in harness

Next time I will tell you about what happens when we “take off.”

Jan 26th 2004 - Training Run
Whew! Things are crazy. It seems I have no time to get to my computer to write. However, I said I would talk about a training run.
What happens after you get through the often chaotic events of hooking up the dogs? YOU HANG ON! The dogs are extremely excited to get going. The have plenty of energy stored up from a day or sometimes two of rest, and they are excited to go. So I pull the snow hook and hang on tight. The first few miles go very quickly. I put two feet on the track to slow the dogs down. My track is a piece of snow machine track chained to my sled between the runners. I can step on it to create drag, slowing the dogs down. I am often on the drag for most of the run. You do not want to the dogs to go too fast. They will get tired on the way back. It is like cross country running, you have to pace yourself. My job is to pace the dogs.
So, I pull the snow hook, hang on, stand on the track to slow down, and off we go. A typical training run is anywhere from 20-50 miles. I run in all types of weather on all types of terrain. I cannot wait for the perfect day or the perfect trail because I would spend a lot of time waiting. Also, you never know what the weather will be like on the trail, so you have to teach the dogs to run in all types of weather… 20 degrees below zero to 30 degrees above zero, windy and foggy conditions, and snowy trails.
I run the dogs halfway and stop for a break. I give them a snack like I will on the Serum Run. I keep it fun. Who wants to run if it is not fun?


Feb 2nd 2004 - The Shakedown
The Shakedown was a couple of weekends ago. The Shakedown was a training run where everyone (snow machiners and mushers) get together, pack all the gear they will be taking on the actual Serum Run into the dog sleds and snow machine trailers, run the dogs and snow machine 38 miles upriver to Yenta Station, spend the night in tents, and then run home. What’s the catch? It was 40 below all weekend! I tried to bring my camera to take a few pictures to download onto this page, but it was too cold! My camera would not work. No guarantee at -40 degrees. Yes, that is how cold it was. Nothing fun about it!
It started as could be expected at 40 below. We had to plug in the dog truck the night before to keep the oil from freezing. The truck started okay. The snow machine would not start. We plugged it in. No good. So we dragged it into the shop to warm it up. I noticed the shop felt cold too. I could see my breath so I checked the thermostat. It read 30 degrees! The shop had run out of fuel oil and the heater had shut off! Now I had to run inside to call for fuel. We were supposed to have been at the trail head 15 minutes ago!!!!
We got fuel, got the snow machine running, loaded it on the trailer (running… we did not want to turn it off for fear it would freeze up again), and loaded the dogs in the dog truck. We made it too the trail head, late. Everyone waited.
The run was uneventful for 40 below. Jason stayed with me on the snow machine to coach me. This was my first experience running dogs in such cold. It was important to stop often to check the dogs for frostbite. I also stopped frequently to snack them. Their energy reserves are quickly depleted in such chilling weather. I had to keep their calorie intake up.
We got to Yenta Station, feed the dogs a couple times, bedded them down with straw, checked feet, and set up camp. Everyone met inside for a spaghetti dinner and “shop talk.” Then we headed out to the tents (mind you it is still 40 below). I will admit, I didn’t stay in the tent all night. I was warm until midnight, then the propane heater konked out. I lay in the sleeping bag chilly for a few hours and finally gave in. Why stay in the cold when there is a nice warm lodge 100 yards away? I woke Jason up (he was sleeping peacefully… I guess I am just not as tough) and we moved to warmth. I slept peacefully for several hours.
Since this great adventure I have purchased a NEW propane heater WITH a fan to circulate the air in tent. Bring on the 40 below on the Serum Run. I won’t wimp out this time!

Food drops all ready to be shipped

Organizing & shipping educational material for the Serum Run

February 23rd
(less than a week before the Serum Run!)

The weather has really warmed up. This warm weather is rough on the dogs. I have to stop frequently on our training runs to let them cool off. A few dogs have lost their appetite due to the warm weather too. One of our thermometers read 48 degrees this weekend!
With less then a week to go before we leave, it seems like there is a million things to do. I typed up to do lists this morning. There are lots of last minute little (and big) things to do:

Serum Run To Do List

• AIRLINE TICKETS HOME
• MAKE A PLAN FOR GETTING DOG TRUCK HOME FROM NENANA
• FIND A PLACE TO STAY IN NENANA
• Sew dog coats?
• Sew neck gaiters
• Sew stuff sack fir sleeping pads
• Sew cover for axe
• Pack dry set of clothes
• Journal entries
• Digital camera
• Pay bills ahead
• Diabetes training on Tuesday
• New gang line and extra parts
• Drop line
• Sled bag put on sled
• Food for first four days
• Cut toe nails
• Clean out and tune up dog truck (air filter and oil?)
• Sharpen axe
• Get together things to carry in dog sled
• Put stickers on snow machine
• Make sure classroom is ready for substitute teacher
  

Trail Map Click Here for detailed view

February 25, 2004 (Three days to go!!!)

Yesterday, I made the last trip to Anchorage for supplies and such. I also attended a diabetes educational workshop. The Serum Run is focusing on diabetes education this year. I spent the night at a friend’s house last night and drove home today. I had to pick up parts for the drop line (the cable "leash" I tie the dogs to when we get to camp each night), sunglasses, and parts for the dog truck and snow machine. I also got a 2 hour massage. It was awesome!!!! I stopped by a musher friend’s house on the way home. He gave me advice and supplies. He said to "keep my head" on the trail. “Don’t panic,” he said, “There is a way out of every situation you get in.” He also gave me two flashing lights to use in an emergency (like being lost at night).
I still need to get the drop line together, work on dog coats, and figure out how we will get the dog truck back home from Nenana. I can’t forget about running the dogs and keeping their muscles loose. I am not doing any long, hard runs now. Just easy runs to keep them loose and in shape. I have not finalized the 12 dogs that will start in Nenana. I want them all to go! I am sure Snoopy is going though. YEAH!

2-27-04 (Two days to go!)

Once again, another busy day. Jason and I were up until 3:00 AM last night. We were working on the new gang line and drop line. I have finished it up tonight. I just finished scrubbing everything out with bleach and water. Dog food bowls, the cooler I mix dog food in, and the cooker I boil water in are spotless! I think we are ready. All we have to do is load it all on the trailer and in the dog truck and go! I am thrilled!

The final team has been chosen. I am going with only 11 dogs instead of the planned 12. I had chosen the final 11 dogs two days ago. I was looking at three different dogs to be the 12th. I did a short run on Wednesday in order to look over the dogs and make a final choice. The three dogs I was looking at (Linus, Sylvester, and Woodstock) have had sore shoulders. I noticed this by observing their gait and rubbing them down after their runs. After Wednesdays run, all three were still a bit sore. Sylvester looked the best, so I brought him in the house for a special dinner and movie (just kidding, he got a rubdown, shoulder wrap, and slept inside). Today, he was still a wee bit sore. I decided it was better to let him stay home a get better then stress his shoulder even more with an 800 mile journey. So, the final eleven are... DA, DA, DA, DUUUM… Cooper, Dakota, Cody, Trigger, Jerry, Bismark, Rosie, Casey, Popcorn, Snap, and SNOOPY!!!!!!!!!!!.

Tomorrow, we head to Nenana. A big thank you to our friend, Ted English, who is driving us to Nenana. Paula, I sure wish you could go too! We will be thinking of you!

2-29 day 1
We woke up today at 7:00 to get started. The seniors of Nenana made us breakfast and then we headed out to the dogs and the dog truck. We had packed the sleds the night before so all we had to do was get me and the dogs to the railroad station. The train was bringing the serum to the railroad station to hand off to Norman Vaughn, and then Norman would hand the serum to a musher.

The train arrived at 10:00. The serum was handed off and I headed out next. I ran along the Nenana River for about 26 miles. Pretty uneventful. I stopped that afternoon at Old Minto. Old Minto is a drug and alcohol rehabilitation center. The people there were fantastic! They had a lunch of moose roast and salmon followed by a dinner of turkey with all the fixings! Then, we awake to a breakfast of biscuits and gravy. Good eating.

So, I arrived at Old Minto in the mid-afternoon after a beautiful, sunny run. I beat Jason by several hours. He had most my supplies in the snowmachine sled. I fed the dogs and lined them out best I could. Jason arrived later. That is when I lined them between two trees with the drop line and heated water for a big meal. During all this I manage to have a stove pipe land on my head while trying to get the stove going in the cabin we slept in.

Bad news though. Cooper (my main leader) seems to have pulled a muscle in his back leg. He is not putting any weight on it. I have rubbed him down well and plan on having him carried tomorrow.
3-1 day 2
I got a late start today. There was a miscommunication about trails. Several mushers headed out at 10:00. The rest of us were getting ready when someone said the wrong trail was marked. We all hung loose for several hours while this was straightened out. It was 2:00 when we finally left. Luckily, it was a shorter run of 28 miles. Still, I arrived at the next stop of Beaver Point hours before Jason. I have learned to carry everything I need in my sled. Fuel to heat water, meat, dog food, all of it.

The trail to Beaver Point was challenging, but fun. It was narrow and scenic. I had a rough start. The first mile out Grandpa Phil has gotten his snow machine stuck, blocking the trail. I stopped my dogs to try to help. My team pulled the snow hook up and ended up in a huge messy knot. Meanwhile, three or so mushers came up behind me to witness the stuck snowmachine and dog knot mess. Egats.

The snowmachiners did not feel the same way about the trail as the the mushers. For the snowmachiners, the trail was too narrow and caused problems. The snowmachines and trailers were falling off the trail and getting stuck. The bulk of the snowmachiners did not arrive at Beaver Point until midnight!

Cooper is better today. I walked him around and can see he is putting weight on the leg. I plan on carrying him until Galena, and then send him home. He needs time to heal. I wish I knew what caused the injury.

3-2 day 3
Today we ran from Beaver Point to Manley hot springs. Guess what? I got there before Jason! This time I was ready. I had everything except the drop line. He got there right after me though.

Other than two large mishaps, the run went well. The first mishap was right at the beginning. Jason led me across the windy lake Beaver Point Lodge is located on, and set me loose. I rounded the first corner and headed the wrong way. I stopped the dogs immediately and turned them left. I had lost my momentum. When I rounded that left hand corner, I hit a tree, was thrown off the sled, and watched the dogs trot away. Fortunately, the sled tipped over and stopped them. The next mishap was 10 more miles up the trail. Again, I made a wrong turn. It took me a bit longer to realize this mistake, about a half mile. I turned the dogs around when I could not see a trail marker and headed back to the last trail marker I had seen. There, I waited until the next musher came along, and followed her. Once I got out of the windblown swamps, the trail was easy to follow, winding up hill, through the forest. Beautiful.

The dogs are hanging in there. I think they are wondering when we are going to turn around and go home. I am so happy Snoopy is with me. She has pulled extremely hard.

3-4 day 4
Today we ran from Manley Hot Springs to Tanana. This was the big one, 57 miles.

I woke up this morning not feeling well. I had trouble eating breakfast. My stomach felt queasy and I was feeling uneasy. I would like to be able to say I had a bit of a flu bug coming on, but I know that was not it. It was nerves. I was worried about this upcoming run. I knew It was long and there were two rough stops that were known to challenge mushers, Fish Lake and Hay Slough. Fish Lake could be a scenic run across a lovely lake or it could be a slippery, sliding run across glare ice through an area known to be a blow hole. Next was Hay Slough, know to be ten miles of glare ice through a slough with willows packing the banks. What was I going to run into on this day? I was dreading it.

It all turned out well. The run to Fish Lake was fantastic. Beautiful rolling hills on a wide packed trail made the going easy. Unfortunately, Bismark was having trouble. The day was warm and he had broken a toenail on an earlier run. All this got to him by mile 11 and he quit running. Lucky for me, a Joe May came by on a snowmachine, and I loaded him in a kennel. After that, the team came together. We ran strong to Fish Lake, even stopping to take pictures!
When I got to Fish Lake, I was relieved. The trail across the lake was mostly snow covered. Parts were icy, and we had to slow down so the dogs could get a grip on the ice. Several times the sled slid sideways and I was riding along side the dogs. After Fish Lake there were many more smaller lakes to cross, all icy. I did not know about them. The dogs stayed tough and pulled through the lakes. I was proud.

Then, I got to Hay Slough. The first few miles were cake! Flat and snow covered trail for several miles. On Jason's recommendation, I stopped and rested the dogs for 20 minutes. We hung out and ate snacks on the snow covered slough. I was thinking I had this part of the trail licked.

After the short rest, we hit the trail again. The dogs were rested and ready to go. A half mile later, we hit the ice. Wow... In places, the ice was so clear, you could see the bottom of the slough. The dogs slipped and fell. I slipped and fell. We were all slipping and falling. Ten miles of this. We made it though. We got to the Yukon River, then Tanana. I think if I ever have to do that part of the trail again, I would bring a helmet.

3-5 day 5
Today was the run from Tanana to Boneyard Cabin. An uneventful run on the Yukon River. Just river, river, river. The going was very slow because of the deep "sugary" ice. It makes for slow travel.

3-6 day 6
BRRRRR. Last night was -30 and we were camping. Need I say more?

Today we ran from "Boneyard Cabin" to "Trapper Cabin". A run of some 42 miles. I did not run the dogs! Jason wanted a turn so I took over on the snowmachine. Within the first 2 miles I managed to tip the snow machine over, almost on top of myself. I leapt out of the way, righted the machine with the help of several people, and continued on. The rest of the trip was flat and uneventful. I have learned to lean on slopes and corners, just like on a dog sled.

3-7 day 7
Another brrrrrr. Last night was -30 and we were in the tent again. I brought Snoopy, Cody, Jerry, Dakota,and Rosie in the tent. It was cozy and much warmer than the previous night.

Not much to say because today I was on the snowmachine again. I get my sled back tomorrow. We ran from Trapper Cabin to Ruby. The excitement of the day was lunch. I drove with my friend Stan. He has this little metal box inside the engine of his snowmachine. You put food in the box and the engine heat warms the food. We had hot chimichangas for lunch on the trail. Very cool.

Ruby is a wonderful town. Many people came out on the sunny Saturday afternoon to greet us. I had bent the hitch on the snow machine trailer. Within five minutes a man had the hitch disassembled. He drove off with the parts and was back in a half an hour with the hitch bent back in shape and welded! That is how helpful everyone I met was.

We slept inside and we got to take showers too, ahhhhh.

3-8 day 8
Ruby to Galena. Most of this run was on the river. There was a glorious portage we took that got us off the river for about 5 miles. I really appreciated this because I was tired of the river.

The most important thing I can say about today was I was constantly cold. The wind was blowing strong on the river. We are sitting around the dinner table discussing how cold it was today. Rumor is 20 to 30 below plus the wind chill. No wonder I shivered all day.

Jerry took a break today. His shoulder has been bothering him. Jason carried Jerry on the snow machine.

We are all taking a day off in Galena! Tomorrow I should be able to get on a computer and talk to the class on the computer!

3-10 day 10

Yesterday we spent the whole day in Galena. The dogs, mushers, snow machiners, and snow machines needed a rest We all had time to sort through gear, make repairs, visit, and rest.

The day started with breakfast at the boarding school. They have a culinary school for students and adults. Rand and Suzette from the school arranged our accommodations and meals. Thank you! Later, there was even time for a few people to go to the cosmetology school for facials, pedicures, and manicures. Check updates for the pictures! I opted for a hamburger and onion rings.

I also made repairs to some chewed harnesses, rubbed down dogs with sore muscles and feet, went to the local store store, and took a nap. I visited with two teachers who stopped by and listened to a book on tape. Wonderful day off!

Some problems though. Our snow machine had a breakdown. It seems the breather box froze up, a hose blew off, and spewed oil all over the engine. Again, locals came through and got our machine and several others into the
school shop so we could make repairs. Jason is keeping the machine in the shop overnight to thaw out the breather tube part. Hopefully, the warm up will cure the problem.

Galena is a good town. We had 30 gallons of gas stolen off our snow machines the first night. The town pulled together when they found out. The incident was announced on the radio station and six new gas cans and sixty gallons of gas were donated. John from the Galena Dog Mushers and the
radio station coordinated this donation. You know you are in a good place when the locals pull together to help visitors. Thank you Galena. On to Nulato.

3-11 day 12

I am in Kaltag. Sorry I have been out of contact. We have major problems. The snow machine did not get better. In fact it got worse. The engine seized and will not run. Jason has not continued on with me. I am in Nulato and he is still in Galena with the broken down snow machine. It has
been difficult to continue on with out him. Our Four Stroke Bearcat 660 has failed. Arctic Cat is making it extremely difficult to get a replacement machine even though our Bearcat is under warranty. We are being charged a
good deal of money to replace the broken machine with the same model. In addition, we have to ship the broken machine to Fairbanks and the new machine to Kaltag. This incident has become a financial burden we are desperately trying to sort out. If you are following me, please contact Arctic Cat at www.arcticcat.com or call 1-800-279-0179. Maybe if they
realize how many people are following the Serum Run, they will try harder to help us solve the problem a different way.

3-14 day ???? I have lost count.(3-13)

OK. Things have been straightened out, some what. Jason has a new machine. The machine was flown to Galena, where the airplane picked him up (we were in Kaltag). The plane flew Jason and the new snowmachine to Nulato. That is as far as the airplane could go because the runway in Kaltag had three inches of snow on it. The Kaltag grader was broken down so that could not clear the runway. Jason and the new snowmachine were dropped of in Nulato and he had to drive the trail to Kaltag alone. That was a little concerning. We have been traveling in pairs for safety. He made it to Kaltag. The snowmachiners stayed behind to wait for Jason, therefore, getting a late start. The trail between Kaltag and Old Woman Cabin was rough. The first 15 miles were moguls. The dog teams went over them with no problem, but snow machines had to go 5 miles an hour. Later the trail had side hills. Again, easy for mushers but difficult for snowmachines. Snow machines flipped, broke hitches, broke sled tongues, and hit trees. The dog teams took 6-7 hours and snowmachines took 8-9 hours! Rough day for the machines. Because they had to wait for Jason, the machines did not arrive to the cabin until midnight. The machines had all the dog food, so we were all waiting to feed our dogs. Crazy day.

Yesterday went better. I ran from Old Woman Cabin to Unalakleet. The trail was packed, smooth, fast, and scenic. We averaged 10 miles an hour with only 8 dogs! Cody took the day off. He had a sore shoulder after all the moguls the day before. I was worried about him but with a day off, some rub down medicine, and a couple rub downs, he is back on his feet. Snoopy continues to rock on. She and Snap were in wheel (the back, closet to the sled) on the mogul day and took a beating from the sled banging over the hills. They both got a super special rubdown that night. Snoopy had a sore shoulder but she bounced back like a trooper. I am so proud of her.

The trail from Old Woman to Unalakleet was fantastic! We ran through a wide valley with rounded hills on either side. It was obvious a glacier had formed the valleys thousands of years ago. The last few miles we climbed over a hilI and dropped down onto the Unalakleet River and ran the river for a few miles. imagined I was a trader carrying goods the coast to trade with the coastal eskimos for seal skins and blubber. It was entertaining! I stopped and chatted with an elder couple going out for ride to "get some fresh air." I also met a couple rangers going to Old Woman Cabin to cut wood and a lady ice fishing on the Unalakleet River. I spent to whole day gazing around at the scenery. At last I came up a hill and looked out to see the Bering Sea. I could not believe I had mushed dogs across Alaska to arrive at the ocean. It was unbelievable. My best day yet! I have gotten into a grove with the dogs and can take the time to look around and enjoy the trip, finally. We even ate the yummiest pizza in Unalakleet last night. Today, it is on to Shaktoolik.

I made it to Elim.

Two days ago I ran from Unalakleet to Shaktoolik. Fantastic run over Blueberry Hill. We ran up over the top of the mountains. What a view.

Yesterday I drove the snow machine so Jason could have another opportunity to run the dogs. Yesterday was a long run, almost 50 miles. Once again, scenic. We ran across the ice of Norton Sound.

Today was Koyuk to Elim. This morning the front runner of the Iditarod came in right before I left. It was Mitch Seavey. That was exciting to see. I actually was one of the first mushers for the Serum Run to leave Koyuk and the first to arrive in Elim. That was a change and wonderful. The dogs were on fire today. As Walo, a fellow musher said, my dogs "grew wings." It is fantastic to see my team finishing this expedition so strong.

The only excitement lately has been my finger. It seems I have developed a small, nasty infection from a combination of hangnail, caring for dog feet, and mixing meat.... Needless to say, a doctor had to lance it in Shaktoolik and now I am on a strong dose of antibiotics. It feels better!

Must run so the principal can get back on his computer. Nome is only 3 days away. I cannot believe it!!!!!

Well, I made it to Nome and then home. We stayed an extra day in White
Mountain because of weather. There was a strong wind blowing over the hills
we had to cross, and it would have been tough going. I went out as a "trail
breaker" that morning on the snow machine. We turned around and came back.
The wind wind was knocking into me, causing me to stumble! Probally 30-40
miles per hour. We had to turn teams around as we approached them on the way
back. The dog teams had launched soon after we left. That was an adventure
turning 11 teams around. But the job got done. The extra day in White
Mountain was entertaining. At about 3:00 PM, everyone began to get bored.
We had tricycle races in the gym, card games, and Yatzee to get us through
the afternoon.

Jason ran the dogs from White Mountain to Safety. I ran them from Safety to
Nome. The Safety to Nome run was short. We all gathered about a mile
outside of town and hooked to a snowmachine (we were going to hve to run
down paved streets to get the dogs to the airport). We paraded into town in
a line, ran under the Iditarod arch, took a crazy ride down paved streets
with traffic, and at the airport, loaded the dogs into dog boxes. Then we
shoved as much stuff as we could into the dog sled because the sled was
going to be flown with the dogs. And it was over. A bit anti-climaxtic.
All those days on the trail and bamm, we are in a town loading the dogs in
dog boxes to go home. I wanted to continue on to Kotzebue. I was not ready
for it to be over.

Later that night we took a picture under the arch and attended the Serum Run
banquet. We each received a bottle of serum and an award. I received the
award for most determined. I guess my stubborness to get us to Nome against
the many odds that stacked up against us shown through on this trip.

Now I am home. I have spent three day resting (sort of), washing clothes,
gloves, and booties, cleaning up, unpacking, sorting, catching up on bills,
paying taxes, milking the goat, feeding chickens, caring for dogs (yes,
Snoopy got to spend the night inside, on the bed), and the other chores. I
WANT TO GO BACK TO THE TRAIL. Thank you all for your support. And don't
forget to contact Arctic Cat. They continue to be less than supportive.